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I. The Scene
Set among the casual cafes along Davis Street, Koi is a refreshingly sophisticated alternative. A small, sleek lounge with a wood-burning fireplace welcomes customers into the minimalist, candlelit dining room, whose hardwood floors, white tablecloths and mostly bare white walls are accented by a few contemporary art pieces. Club music thumps softly; a spacious bar area beckons with a flat-screen TV and lengthy specialty cocktail list.

II. The Food
The menu runs the gamut from standard Chinese fare like Szechuan chicken and fried rice to platters of fresh, ornately presented maki and nigiri sushi. Edamame is a popular starter, served cold and barely salted; a better appetizer option is crab rangoon or chicken or beef satay, lightly fried and served with peanut and chili sauces. Sushi standouts include tasty spider, dragon and spicy tuna rolls, plus a couple dozen fresh sashimi options, from yellowtail and scallop to mackerel and snapper.